Spanish sauces are known for their rustic, intense flavor and for using the best natural ingredients from the local area. Spain is a geographically diverse country, bordered on two sides by the sea and to the north by the Pyrenees mountains. Centuries of invasions and explorations have influenced its 50 provinces, each of which has developed sauces specific to its history and natural resources. Spanish sauces are humble and take cues from their bounteous lands; many sauces use a base of onions, garlic, tomatoes, and olive oil. Salsa de calamares, or squid ink sauce, is a favorite in seaside Andalusia, while in the mountains of northern Spain, the nut-based romesco is a favorite.
We asked Andres Kaifer, owner and executive chef of Customshop and Marina’s Tapas, to share some of his expertise on the best Spanish sauces. As he explained, “Spanish sauces traditionally rely heavily on the provenance of ingredients; each sauce is specific to a region and the ingredients that are found within the geography of the region.” One feature of Spanish sauces is their uniqueness regionally and even within the same village, and twists on a sauce are often a closely guarded secret. As Kaifer elaborates, “One of my favorite things to do is to study traditional ingredients and techniques, then tweak and adjust to create something new and exciting.” However, he also states the importance of trying a traditional sauce first before attempting adjustments. “These sauces have stood the test of time for a reason,” he says.
Sofrito
A good sofrito is the backbone of Spanish cooking. Sofrito is a thick, aromatic Spanish sauce used in many traditional and modern dishes. “Sofrito is the base of many dishes in Spanish cooking,” Kaifer says. It enhances the flavor of anything by adding aromatics and depth to a dish. Sofrito is a mild, sweet sauce made from onions, garlic, tomatoes, and peppers that have been diced and slowly simmered in olive oil. Often called refogado in Spain, meaning braised or cooked slowly, the essence of sofrito is its long, slow cooking time, which allows the flavors to fully meld together. Kaifer describes sofrito as a flavor bomb, stating that it can “elevate almost any dish by adding foundation and complex flavor profiles.”
The Spanish sofrito was brought to the continent by Spanish explorers in the late 1400s, and the base recipe now appears in different iterations in Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, Italy, Peru, Brazil, and Colombia. There is even a modified version of sofrito in the Philippines that the locals call ginisá. The beauty of sofrito is its versatility. It is primarily a base flavor component in many traditional Spanish dishes like paella, soups, stews, or rich dishes. Sofrito can work as a stand-alone sauce, drizzled over meat or fish, as a salsa on tacos, as a spread within wraps and sandwiches, as a dip with crudités, or even as a salad dressing.
Salsa de calamares
For some seafood lovers, nothing beats the rich, briny taste of salsa de calamares, an intense savory sauce made from squid ink. Spain’s seafaring history is long and lauded; its symbiotic relationship with the sea has influenced cooking all over the country, though nowhere more than Valencia, where locals have perfected the art of squid and cuttlefish dishes. Squids use their ink, also known as cephalopod ink, to blind predators. But it also offers health benefits that boost immunity, fight cancer, and lower blood pressure. Authentic squid ink is hard to find; much of the squid ink commercially available in shops is actually cuttlefish ink, but Chef Andres Kaifer says that the two inks are “used interchangeably. They are from the same family of fish, and the flavor is identical.”
Squid ink is popularly described as having a “flavor of the sea,” but that dismisses the deeply savory, salty, umami taste of this complex product. Best known for its use in pasta and rice dishes such as Spanish arròs negre or Italian pasta al nero di seppia, it results in a decadent, dark dish that looks and tastes stunning. We asked Kaifer what to look out for when ordering a dish with squid ink; he told us to consider “how dark and flavorful it is. Squid ink is very rich in flavor and should be very dark in color. A dish with squid ink should leave your teeth or lips lightly stained black.”
Salsa de piquillos
Salsa de piquillos is a sweet, smoky sauce made with the piquillo pepper, which is native to northern Spain. The English translation of salsa de piquillos is pepper sauce, and it’s a sweet, garlicky, slice of heaven. Salsa de piquillos traditionally tops grilled meats and seafood or is loosened with cream or stock to flavor pasta or cooked potatoes. Rivera’s Piquillos Rellenos Recipe adds cheese, chorizo, and raisins to the salsa to give it a sweet, savory taste. Just like traditional salsa, salsa de piquillos is popularly eaten with chips, spread on toast, or added to tapas like chorizo or bacalao.
Piquillo peppers are grown in the Navarra region of Northern Spain. Piquillo means little beak in Spanish, and the peppers are similar in appearance to jalapeños. They grow up to 2 inches in length and are bright red. They also have a mild, sweet, fresh taste similar to that of a bell pepper, but their thin skins make them softer and more succulent. You can find canned piquillos peppers in stores all over the U.S. To make salsa de piquillos, the peppers are roasted to intensify their sweet flavor and add a smoky element. The peppers are then combined with garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper and sometimes a touch of vinegar, stock, or a splash of cream.
Salsa manteca colorá
Salsa manteca colorá means red lard in Spanish. It is a smoky, fatty luxury that is revered in the Andalusian region. The orange-red sauce can be seen in great pots in markets all over southeastern Spain. The Spanish are renowned for using every part of the animal, and for centuries, they have used pork lard or fat for its flavor and ability to withstand high temperatures. The Spanish staples of tomato, onions, and garlic are often combined with fats, such as olive oil or lard, to make sauces. In salsa manteca colorá, the base sauce is pork lard combined with garlic and vinegar, then tomatoes or paprika are added depending on the region. In Latin America, they add fiery chile peppers.
The result is a garlicky, savory smoky sauce that is used in a variety of ways. In Spain, salsa manteca colorá is eaten as a spread with toast but also as an essential ingredient in traditional recipes such as cocido (stew) and migas (a dish made from manteca, garlic, and breadcrumbs) or served with pork meat such as chorizo, ham, or albondigas (meatballs). Salsa manteca can also be incorporated into tortillas and pastries to give them a deep, smoky flavor.
Salsa de piñones
Salsa de piñones, or pine nut sauce, is similar to the more famous Italian pesto. Some of the base ingredients of pine nuts, olive oil, and garlic are the same, but the Spanish version has a regional uniqueness that makes it a must-try. The Mediterranean pine tree proliferates in Spain’s Andalusian, Valencian, and Catalonian regions, and the pine nut has been used in traditional Spanish recipes for over 5,000 years. There is evidence that pine nuts were heavily used in cooking during the Roman Empire, where soldiers carried them as rations during military campaigns.
Salsa de piñones is made by finely dicing pine nuts, combining them with olive oil and garlic, and adding any combination of cream, cheese, bread, and herbs such as parsley or thyme. Chef Andres Kaifer explains, “Traditional Italian pesto is much more herbaceous than salsa de piñones. Salsa de piñones is a bit more refined and almost creamier.” The salsa is used as a condiment alongside meat and vegetables, or it can be watered down with cream and served with pasta or rice. Kaifer recommends eating salsa de piñones alongside roasted pork tenderloin for a delicious combination of flavors.
Mojos
Mojos, both the red variety (mojo picón) and the green (mojo verde), are a cultural staple in Spain’s Canary Islands. The sauce is served alongside everything from grilled meats and seafood to the Canaries’ infamous wrinkled potatoes, papas arrugadas.
The Canary Islands sit between Spain and Africa, and mojo sauces are influenced by centuries of seafaring and the subsequent arrival of spices and cuisines from all over the world. The sauce has over 20 variants, including fried mojo, cheese mojo, and liver mojo. Mojos of some kind are served on every table in the Canary Islands, and the picón and verde are the most common. Mojo picón — or red mojo — is a spicy red sauce with garlic, peppers, dried chile, cumin seeds, paprika, and vinegar. Mojo picón goes particularly well with meats and cheeses but is often paired with potatoes, like patatas bravas, or the aforementioned papas arrugadas.
Mojo verde, or green sauce, is milder and packed with herbs. It is made by adding lime juice and green herbs such as cilantro and parsley to the base ingredients of garlic, cumin vinegar, and olive oil. This sauce, often used as a condiment, is light and refreshing, ideally served with seafood dishes or vegetables. We asked Chef Andres Kaifer which mojo is his favorite and how he uses it. He says, “My favorite … is mojo verde. I would recommend [it] with pan-seared fish or using mojo verde as a base in a steamed clam dish.”
Salsa vizcaina
Salsa vizcaina is a bright orange sauce with red peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and onions. Salsa vizcaina is specific to the Basque region of Spain, a northern territory that borders the Bay of Biscay and the great reaches of the Atlantic Ocean. As with many Spanish sauces, there are variations on the base recipe.
Salsa vizcaina is influenced by its oceanside location; centuries of trade between Spain and the Americas mean that the Basque Country was one of the first places to import the choricero peppers. Some believe that people originally made salsa vizcaina without tomatoes and only with the deseeded peppers simmered with garlic and onions; the argument over whether to include tomatoes or not still rages today.
Cultural influences throughout Spain offer regional variations on the sauce. A chef may vary the quantities of peppers and add spices, wine, vinegar, or fish stock. Traditional salsa vizcaina is regarded as the regional sauce of the Basque Country. It has a smoky, sweet, and garlicky flavor and is particularly revered as part of bacalao a la vizcaina, or salt cod with Biscay sauce. The sauce also often serves as a condiment that accompanies meats and fish.
Salsa de naranjas amargas
Salsa de naranjas amargas, or bitter orange sauce, is a uniquely Spanish sauce made with oranges from the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium). The plant was originally grown as an ornamental plant but was later found to have culinary uses. Bitter orange is an ingredient in jams, marmalades, and liqueurs worldwide, and most of the world’s bitter orange is grown in the Seville region of Spain.
Salsa de naranjas amargas is a sweet, sour, and bitter sauce made with bitter oranges, sugar, vinegar, and spices like cinnamon and clove. Salsa de naranjas amargas is a niche sauce, but its versatility should not be underestimated. Its unique flavor can greatly enhance meat and vegetable dishes.
Salsa de naranjas amargas can be a marinade for meat or a condiment for cooked meats, seafood, or vegetables. Chef Andres Kaifer uses naranja amarga as a marinating ingredient. “Blended and mixed together with garlic, herbs, and spices, it makes for a delicious brine that you can use for pork, beef, or chicken.” In Andalusia, it is paired with cochinillo (suckling pig) or drizzled over rice. In the Caribbean and Latin America, chile or tomatoes are added and the sauce accompanies tacos, burritos, or a side of slow-cooked pork. The sauce even works as a salad dressing.
Allioli
Allioli, perhaps better known in the U.S. as aioli, is a garlicky, creamy sauce most often used as a condiment or spread. Allioli is widely used in the U.S. as a side for fries and a dipping sauce for meat, seafood, or vegetables, in the same way you would use mayonnaise.
Allioli is made with garlic, olive oil, and egg, although historically, the egg was omitted. The sauce’s origin is the subject of some debate: Spaniards claim Allioli hails from the Catalan region of Spain, while the French declare it a product of the Provence region of France.
Regardless of its provenance, the original Allioli recipe is made by emulsifying just garlic and oil in a mortar and pestle. Today, most commercial varieties use egg, which gives Allioli a mayonnaise-like consistency, leading some to refer to Allioli as garlic mayonnaise. It can also be made with the inclusion of lemon juice.
In Catalan cuisine, Allioli is served alongside seafood, grilled meats, or vegetables, as a dipping sauce in tapas menus, or as a condiment for the traditional Spanish dish of paella. Chef Andres Kaifer says, “Alioili is one of my favorite Spanish sauces, and albeit simple, it can be so versatile. Alioli is great with any vegetable or protein and can be used as a base to create other sauces as well.” In the U.S., we spread it on sandwiches, dip crudités or fries into it, or smear it on steak. Its robust flavor elevates almost every dish.
Romesco
Romesco is obviously the most popular sauce in Spain. It is also known as the Catalan fisherman’s sauce. The nation’s favorite is made with tomatoes, roasted red peppers, almonds, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, and occasionally, hazelnuts. The Berkshire Edge described it as “rich, jammy, slightly smoky, and subtly spicy,” but as with many Spanish sauces, its recipe has many different variations and different emphases on the amount of nuts, tomato, pepper, and garlic it includes.
Romesco originated in the port city of Tarragona in the region of Catalonia, sometime in the 18th century. The sauce was created to liven a daily diet of fish, hence the name the Catalan fisherman’s sauce. In her book “Lateral Cooking,” Nikki Sengit states that “A good romesco achieves a perfect poise between sweetness, sharpness, and a deep nut-buttery savouriness that elevates roast meat, fish, or vegetables to truly awe-inspiring heights of deliciousness.”
The romesco is one of the most versatile sauces. Traditionally, it was slathered on seafood or vegetables or dolloped alongside grilled meat, but it can also be eaten cold as a dip, heated as a soup, or thickened with nuts and spread on bread or crackers. A homemade jar of romesco will last a couple of weeks in the fridge. It’s the everyday sauce that many Spaniards can’t live without.
Chimichurri
Chimichurri is often thought of as an Argentinian sauce, but its roots began in Spain. As Chef Andres Kaifer tells us, “Chimichurri originated in Spain. All versions of chimichurri are derivatives of Spanish chimichurri.” The original includes parsley, garlic, vinegar, and chili. The ingredients are hand-chopped (never blended) and marinated before eating.
The sauce’s origin is hotly contested; some claimed that a 19th-century Irish immigrant, James (Jimmy) McCurry, moved to Argentina and, consumed with longing for his native Worcestershire sauce, combined the ingredients that eventually became chimichurri. Another story states that Basque migrants brought a similar sauce called tximitxurri to Argentina, which evolved into today’s chimichurri. Whatever its origin, there is no denying its popularity.
Chimichurri is a common side for grilled meats or barbecue. Its zesty, herb-filled flavor is the ideal accompaniment to the fattiness and char of cooked meats. Like romesco, it has a variety of uses, including as a marinade before cooking meat, as a salsa with tacos, or as a condiment for vegetables or potatoes. The light, bright sauce goes with almost every savory dish. When we asked Kaifer how he uses chimichurri, he said, “Chimichurri can be used in many ways other than just as a condiment. I used chimichurri a lot as a ‘mother sauce’ commonly adding it to other sauces to enhance the end product. However, it is tough to beat a great cut of beef grilled over a wood fire, finished with crunchy salt, and doused with chimichurri.”